Stories from the Balkans and Turkey

Survakari ritual in Pernik Region of Bulgaria

2012-01-15T13:17:00.000-08:00

This "old lady" is surely a man cross-dressing. The place is a village outside of the Bulgarian city of Pernik and the occassion is Survakari Games, also called Kukeri, which is the night between Christmas and Lent when torch bearing, mask wearing processioners light a bonfire and then dance around it in hedonistic frenzy. Apparently the tradition dates back to the Thracians and later was integrated into the Christian calendar. Anyway I wonder why, in so many places I've been, I've seen this theme of men dressing as women as some kind of ritual humor. In Cambodia, teenage Cham boys dressed in women's clothing as one of a series of wedding rituals, in Turkey, nomadic people celebrated Hidrellez, some as men dressed as women (and again, dancing around a fire) and of course in the west it's the default Halloween costume for lazy teens.

Flower Seller, Sofia

2012-01-10T13:05:00.000-08:00

In the post-holiday season and with the current economy, business is slow, especially for the numerous flower sellers. Bulgarians usually bring flowers when they are guests at someone's home, but also use them to welcome visitors at airports and train stations, or for funerals, or during religious holidays. But "the crisis" as it's referred to, has slowed business of all types. Though joining the EU has helped funnel money into the country, most agree that a good percentage of those funds have ended up in the pockets of clever businessmen, or worse yet, with the Bulgarian mutri (mafia) and regular people are having a hard time making ends meet.

Syrians protest in Bulgaria

2012-01-09T08:59:00.000-08:00

Epiphany at Nevski Cathedral in Sofia

2012-01-07T05:46:00.000-08:00

January 1, 2012: New Year's in Bulgaria

2012-01-02T03:01:00.000-08:00

I'm now based in Sofia, Bulgaria, where I rang in 2012 with thousands gathered in Sofia's Battenberg Square, renamed after the first modern Bulgarian prince, after being the 9th of September Square during 40 years of Communist Rule. New Year's entertainment included a show which combined Bulgarian folk music and dancing with hip hop, beat box and drumming-- a seemingly perfect metaphor for modern Bulgarian culture.

Abandoned Armenian Church

2011-04-27T11:48:00.000-07:00

Children playing in an abandoned Armenian church in the village of Özlüce, south of Nevşehir.

Many beautiful Armenian villages are now inhabited by Turkish peasants. Most of the churches left behind have been converted to mosques, while others have been competely abandoned. Following a group of children around Özlüce I learned what a wonderous yet haunted place they inhabit.

New Year in Diyarbakir

2011-04-02T11:02:00.000-07:00

For years, Kurds have been prohibited from celebrating their most important holiday, Newroz (called Nevroz in Turkish). In 2005, the Turkish government lifted the ban and Kurds, who make up about 20% of Turkey's population, have held massive celebrations ever since. About 1 million people attend the biggest festival at a fairground outside Diyarbakir each year. Diyarbakir has the biggest Kurdish majority of any city in Turkey.

It was fascinating to see people young and old, dressed in Kurdish ethnic clothing and wearing Kurdish colors. Also interesting was how many wore military uniforms worn by PKK (the outlawed Kurdish Workers Party) fighters. Many people dressed their children in miniature military uniforms made of olive wool jacket and matching baggy pants. Headdresses were checked scarves, once again in Kurdish colors, yellow, green and red.

For the most part, Newroz looked like a massive Sunday at the park picnic, until you got inside the stadium where thousands waved flags featuring the face of imprisoned PKK leader Abdullah Ocalan and flashed victory signs. Giant bonfires were lit with kerosene and crowds pushed in close to the scorching heat and sparks. When the wind changed directions, coughing youth moved just far enough back to get fresh air and avoid being ignited.

In the afternoon, people headed back to the city center, many on the back of open trucks, waving flags and flashing victory signs again. The festival went off without the violence that sometimes accompanies such events.

But later that evening youths clashed with the police and a handful of people were hospitalized. When I visited a nearby park a few hours later, the smell of tear gas was still so strong it stung my nostrils and I covered my nose with my scarf. A nearby street was strewn with paving rocks which had been thrown during the confrontation and a pool of dark red fluid leaked from the sidewalk. A dozen people sat quietly under a tent next to space heaters, recovering from the tear gas and violence.

Kurdish Wedding

2011-02-07T12:21:00.000-08:00

The bride, right, watches as one of her cousins gets her hair done for the wedding celebration.

Sunday I found some people gathering to prepare for a wedding in my old neighborhood, Tarlabaşı. A thin, dark haired groomsman showed me the groom having his haircut in the barbershop while the others shined and decorated the cars. The men offered me a stool on the sidewalk and a cup of tea, and before I knew it, I was ushered down to a basement level hair salon, where the women were getting ready for the celebration.

They were Kurds from Mardin, they told me. Later, a middle-aged relative told me she was from Bagdad and had left because of the war.

I'd been trying to photograph a Kurdish wedding for some time, and was really appreciating my good luck.

After a good hour of grooming, the wedding party got into cars and showed me into the back of an open van from which I could get a good view of the bridal procession as it wove through the streets of Istanbul, stereo turned up and honking horns while women waved colorful scarves through the windows managing perfect wrist gyrations.

At one point, cars stopped in a traffic jam, the hired videographer ran out of the open van to get some footage of the bridal car. Our driver had no idea we were one passenger shy. When the traffic eased, he put his foot on the gas, leaving the poor video guy running behind our van. Cries of stop, stop, both in English and Kurdish finally got the driver to slow the vehicle enough so the poor video guy could jump back in the trunk. Away we went, weaving through traffic and making a healthy noise.

The procession ended at a wedding hall where young men and women (divided by gender) performed a Kurdish circle dance to traditional music. About an hour into the dancing, the bride and groom were ushered into the fold in a lavish display of sparklers, confetti and candles.

That's when my camera battery died. A sad ending to a lovely evening.

The girl assists the hairdresser freeing him up to light a cigarette.

Cars honking and stereos blasting Kurdish music, the bridal party circles through central Istanbul.

The bridal party stops for tea and sandwiches in front of the Dolmabahçe Mosque on the Bosphorus.

At a wedding hall in Kurtuluş women perform a traditional dance.

When the bride and groom are announced, candles and sparklers are lit and confetti fills the air.

Memorial in Tirana for Protest Victims

2011-02-01T11:19:00.000-08:00

Tirana, Albania, January 28, 2011: Mayor Edi Rama escorts a relative of one of the protesters who died a week earlier. Three demonstrators were killed when government forces opened fire on people demonstrating against the 2009 election results which gave Prime Minister Sali Berisha a second term. Rama is also the leader of the Socialist Party, who organized the demonstration and may have encouraged the participants to use violence against police.

A relative of one of the victims morns in Tirana on a mass memorial for the three men who died a week earlier.

Children carried flowers and people lit candles to remember the victims.

Flowers were distributed to the marchers who then laid them near photographs of the victims.

Thousands of people attending the memorial march for the victims.

Many worried that there might be another confrontation between police and demonstrators but calm prevailed.

Epiphany Day, Kalofer, Bulgaria

2011-01-06T09:10:00.000-08:00

In the village of Kalofer, population 3600, epiphany is celebrated each year with a communal act of heroic extremism. Dozens of young men, dressed in folk costume and accompanied by bagpipe and drum, carry Bulgarian flags as they half-submerge themselves in the freezing-cold Tundzha River. Epiphany, for those who don't know, is the Christian feast day celebrating the revelation of God the Son as a human being in Jesus Christ. That's why an Orthodox priest tosses a wooden cross into the river and why he later sprinkles believers (and photographers who linger too close) with water. Bulgarian Orthodox Christians then kiss the metal cross held by the priest while photographers dry off their lenses.

New Year in Bulgaria

2011-01-05T07:40:00.000-08:00

A young kouker wearing a horned mask lines up in front of his troupe in the town square of Razlog, Bulgaria.

Boys and young men play the part of the kouker, according to tradition.

Spent New Year's Day in Razlog, Bulgaria, when the "koukers" come out to play. Young men, presumably bachelors, dress in long-haired goat furs, wear big, heavy bells parade around town making lots of speechless noise. After all, like the animals they represent, they are mute. Razlog is one of many villages that hold kouker celebrations (kukeri in Bulgarian) in an attempt to fend off evil spirits. Accompanied by folk dancers, "bears" and "bear-keepers" they are part of a play which culminates in the city center, where competing troupes show off their suits and dramatic presentations.

Bears and bear-keepers try to catch random townspeople. These guys caught me and wouldn't let me go until I paid them off.

Folk dancers, dressed in traditional clothing accompany the koukers on the January 1st route through the town.

October Outtakes

2010-11-24T13:14:00.000-08:00

My new favorite place to shoot is the amusement park

2010-11-22T04:58:00.000-08:00

A child wearing a headscarf on a bungee jumping apparatus at an Istanbul amusement park.

Moms watch as their children ride a Tower of Fear at an Istanbul amusement park.

Kids ride a Tower of Fear at an Istanbul amusement park.

Bayram, continued

2010-11-18T00:28:00.000-08:00

Tourists gather to admire views of the Golden Horn from the top of the Eyüp tramway during the Kurban Bayram.

Cleaning their ancestor's graves during Kurban Bayram, (Eid al-Adha) holiday, Eyüp Cemetery, Istanbul.

A woman tries to find a relative's grave in Eyüp Cemetery.

Families gathered near the Eyüp Sultan Mosque during the Eid al-Adha holiday.

Women prayed inside the Eyüp Sultan Mosque during the Eid al-Adha holiday.

Pilgrims gathered at the Eyüp Sultan Mosque during the Eid al-Adha holiday.

Pilgrims crowded the Eyüp Sultan Mausoleum where Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, the standard-bearer of the prophet Muhammad, is said to have been buried during the Arab assault on Constantinople in 670.

The 'hood

2010-11-17T12:27:00.000-08:00

Street scene, Tarlabashi. Kurban Bayram day.

Kurban Bayram/Sheep killing holiday

2010-11-15T12:49:00.000-08:00

Buying a sheep for Bayram holiday, on a handshake.

Shepherd.

Father and son with their newly purchased sheep.

Newly slaughtered sheep.

Leftover parts.

Putting meat into plastic bags.

Woman coming for the extra parts, including stomach and heads.

Girl with extra sheep parts.

Shepherds rounding up runaway sheep.

Unrelated to Bayram, ducks in a park.

Istanbul has unbelievable sunsets.

Protest Against Honor Killings and Violence Against Women

2010-10-31T14:24:00.000-07:00


After recounting the story of the honor killing of a Turkish woman, a demonstrator is comforted.

Violence against women is a universal problem, and every year many thousands of women die at the hands of men. However, in Turkey and adjacent countries, where the traditional concept of "honor" is strong, an unusually high number of women are killed by their own families or by forced suicides in retribution for the dishonor they may have caused.

Women can dishonor their families in a number of ways, primarily having to do with illicit relationships that may be as shallow as a glance or as deep as an extra-marital affair. Stories have likewise emerged of women being killed or forced into suicide after being raped. Turkey is not alone in facing this harsh tradition, which occurs more frequently in rural areas like Eastern Anatolia, and among rural populations who have moved to urban areas. Important cases have occurred in Muslim communities from Western Europe to Pakistan.

A recent report by the Turkish National Assembly found that of over 1000 deaths of women in a five-year period, 29% were due to issues of honor, while another 29% resulted from disagreements within a woman's family, 15% having to do with extra-marital affairs and 10% due to blood feud. The remaining killings included those killed due to rape, sexual harassment, marital disagreements and suicide. (Reference: Zulfi Livaneli, former member of the Turkish National Assembly)

A protest in Istanbul brought together women and others, including some representing the transgendered community, to protest against such gender-based violence. Demonstrators carried photographs of some of the Turkish victims of violence against women.

Violence against women is a problem in Turkey as in many countries around the world.

Protesters hold signs and photographs of victims of violence in Turkey.

A photograph of a woman who was a victim of violence.

Annual Air Festival in Oludeniz

2010-10-21T13:13:00.000-07:00

Hundreds of pilots took part in the annual Oludeniz Air Festival last weekend. Launching from a mountain high above Olundeniz beach, the pilots soared over the "Turquoise Coast," landing one after another on the beach below as curious tourists watched attentively before scurrying out harm's way.

Paragliders, some riding double, land one after another on Oludeniz Beach.

A pilot is congratulated after a safe landing.

A motorized paraglider flies both Turkish and Ataturk flags.

If anyone can read Arabic, please tell me what is written on this paraglider.

Kurds protest attack on BDP headquarters

2010-10-21T00:51:00.000-07:00

October 18, 2010, Istanbul, Turkey
Members of the BDP (Kurdish political party) meet to protest an attack on their headquarters. It was reported that a Molotov cocktail was thrown at the BPD's Istanbul headquarters, just a few doors down from my Tarlasi apartment. This came on the same day that a trial began of 151 people suspected of PKK terrorist activities, including mayors, politicians and lawyers in Diyarbakir, the center of Turkey's Kurdish community.

Little Getaway to the Mediterrean Coast

2010-10-20T10:46:00.000-07:00

Fetiye harbor, on the Mediterranean Coast.

Fetiye's Balikce, Fish Market

Shepherdess on the Lykian Way trail.

Breakfast, Shanti Garden, Kabak Beach

Sunset overlooking Kabak Beach

Shanti Garden Bungalows, Kabak Beach

New friend, Lykian Way Trail

Just something funny...

2010-10-09T08:50:00.000-07:00

Participants in an official ceremony at the Naval Museum, Istanbul.

It's a boat, no it's a car, no its a.. ???

Boy posing in his circumcision-day outfit. I think his parents own this lingerie store.

Dancing imams for sale, toy bazaar.

Turkish Flotation Device

2010-10-02T03:36:00.000-07:00

Did you know that if you attach empty water bottles to your underpants (screwing the tops on the opposite site of the cloth) you can make a flotation device? That's what this kid did, but just in case, I asked him if he could swim. I watched him jump into the water and, wouldn't you know it, he floated!

Horsemen of Heybeliada

2010-10-02T03:29:00.000-07:00

Heybeliada is one of three main islands just an hour's ferry ride from Istanbul. Cars on the islands are rare. Instead, visitors ride around on horse-drawn carriages, rent bicycles or just walk. The absence of cars in a place so close to the city makes it a great refuge. I wonder how much longer horse-drawn carriages will be viable. I asked and it seems most horsemen take city jobs in the winter months. I visited the main horse-carriage waiting/resting/feeding area near the port and also the horse stables, where old carriages (and old horses) go to rest and all other horses just rest.

Street Funeral in Tarlabasi

2010-10-02T02:50:00.000-07:00

Men prayer during funeral rites in Tarlabasi.

Three days ago, I decided I needed a walk so I strolled a bit around the neighborhood and stumbled upon a group of women and children sitting on the sidewalks on mats. In terribly broken Turkish, I asked if there was a party. Talk about putting my foot in my mouth! It was actually a funeral. Thank goodness I brought my dictionary with me so I could look up that word (turned out to be "cezane," pronounced jeh-za-neh). A group of men took turns reading prayers. At certain points during the ritual, hands were brought to face in prayer and faces were "washed" with hands, as I've seen done by Muslims in other parts of the world. As far as I could gather, the deceased was a world-traveling Roma (gypsy) musician, who had performed in North America and several countries in Europe. He was

Praying during the funeral for a 28 year-old man, Tarlabasi.

A boy plays with a toy gun as people gathered for the funeral of a 28 year-old Gypsy musician.

A woman plays with her grandson before the funeral rites began in Tarlasi, a neighborhood of Istanbul.

Food is passed out to all who gathered to attend the funeral rites.

Smoke and Street Work

2010-09-29T04:25:00.000-07:00

Boys playing with fire.

Recycling in Istanbul is done by these cardboard collectors.

2010-09-26T13:15:00.000-07:00

Protest for Peace, Taxim.

Some kind of gymnastic move, Tophane.

Tophane, Istanbul.

Street musicians and Japanese Tourists

Selling for a Living

2010-09-25T01:48:00.000-07:00

Roma women sell flowers at the Uskudar port on Istanbul's Asian side.

The streets of Istanbul are teaming with sellers, hawkers, and vendors of all sorts. With all the competition, it's hard to imagine how the individuals make ends meet. Surely some do, but many barely eke out a living selling chestnuts, semit (Turkish bagel-pretzels), rice-stuffed mussels, jewelry, used shoes, and all other sorts of things one can and can't imagine. I find myself continually drawn to the flower sellers, who keep themselves busy watering their flowers, making bouquets, and arranging their wares, rarely keeping still. The sellers themselves are primarily Roma (Gypsy) women. They've had some run-ins with officials lately, who want to regulate the selling practices, making them rent out officials kiosks. Apparently, sellers have been instructed to wear a uniform of black pants, white t-shirt and apron, attire antithetical to their culture and traditions. For now, the vendors continue to don their headscarves and colorful skirts. It will be a sad day when they are forced to look and act like restaurant waiters.

Another Gallery Opening, this time with tear gas

2010-09-22T05:25:00.000-07:00

A woman covers her face after the gallery is attacked with pepper gas. Artwork on the wall features the face of Ataturk, but stretched and distorted.

Last night was Tophane Art Walk, which meant several galleries had openings (complete with free drinks and crowds to match). One of the most startling exhibits my friends and I stopped in to visit featured some very political art works. A image of Ataturk, modern Turkey's national hero, was stretched and distorted, so that it could only be really understand if looked from the side. A totem sculpture featured a series of women's eyes peaking fearfully out from under an abaya, the crescent moon of Islam on her head. Turkey's AKP (ruling party) leans Islamist. In Turkey, it's a major crime to disrespect Ataturk but freedom of speech is also allowed. While inside the gallery, all of the sudden people rushed in, coughing loudly. Then, suddenly, I felt it too! Pepper gas! It turned out that a group of thugs had attacked the crowd of beer-drinking gallery goers with sticks and rocks and pepper gas. An Italian guy had a big lump on his forehead where he'd been hit and we went with him to find some ice. The newspaper reported that a few people were hospitalized with their injuries. My friends thought probably the attackers were angry about the artwork. But, in the newspaper today, it was reported instead that the attackers were angry at the crowd of people drinking beer outside the gallery.

Istanbul, September 15th

2010-09-20T00:46:00.000-07:00

Here's a photo from our new neighborhood, Tarlabashi, a gorgeous and historic part of the city which has fallen into disrepair and is now home to the many of the city's poor. Gypsies, Kurds, transvestites and foreign photographers live here. However, many of it's homes are slated for demolition and development plans include relocating many of the area's current residents. For the moment, a roving amusement ride provides entertainment for children.

The 'hood

2010-09-20T00:44:00.000-07:00

Here's a scene from our neighborhood, Tarlabasi. It's a kind of ghetto and home to lots of Kurds, most of whom came to Istanbul in the 90's to escape the conflict in Turkey's Southeast. During those years, thousands of Kurdish villages were destroyed, and tens of thousands died in the conflict. Hundreds of thousands of refugees poured into urban areas like Tarlabasi, which is in a very central neighborhood on the European side of the city. As the areas surrounding Tarlabasi gentrify, land values are increasing rapidly. Now the municipality wants to bulldoze decrepit Tarlabasi buildings, push out the poor and rebuilt the neighborhood to accommodate the middle and upper class. Neighborhood groups are resisting but most people I've spoken with agree that the move is inevitable. It's just a matter of time.
Meanwhile, Tarlabasi remains a photographer's paradise, full of activity and a kind of decrepit beauty. Reminds me of Havana and Naples.

Yakay-Der, the Saturday Mothers

2010-09-18T05:49:00.000-07:00

Every Saturday morning for the past nine years, women and men who have lost their loved ones in what they call Turkey's "special war" from 1993-1998. The organizers say more than 1500 people are still missing or unaccounted for. Others sources offer a much higher figure, saying perhaps 3200 Kurds and Assyrians "disappeared in 1993 and 1994. Many of the Saturday Mothers (and fathers) are Kurdish. The conflict in Turkey's Southeast was officially ended with a cease-fire, but tensions are still high following this summer's violence. Kurds make up almost 20% of Turkey's population. Many have fled the fighting and live in Istanbul's poor neighborhoods.

Romantic City on the Sea

2010-09-17T03:15:00.000-07:00

Photographing from the Galata Bridge, which crosses the Golden Horn, I watched how much people really love having their city on the sea. The light here is consistently lovely, and now that's its cooled off a bit, it's a great city for walking around. I've walked more the last week than I have the previous month, and it feels good!

Rodeo

2010-09-15T01:01:00.000-07:00

Rodeo Gallery, Tophane

Last night we were invited to an art gallery opening in Taxim. From there, we followed a group of artists and photographers to another opening in a different part of town. As the alcohol flowed and snacks were enjoyed Not being sure what the art was (or where it was) I asked one of the people I met. The response, "I think it might be us."